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the only issue is that the beam we are talking about is not supported by the beam, so if you look at it from the side view, you will see that it is supported by the floor. so i would recommend to dig a hole between the beam and the floor and install a support. if you don't have a lot of space under the ceiling, you might want to just remove the entire support plate and hammer the frame straight.the yellow shoring is there for insulation. the majority of the framing was put in earlier this year and had not yet been drilled into. the framing has all been at least partially dry for the past six months. the roof framing in the previous owner's addition was custom, but is all permanent.the most common materials are treated lumber (much like wood stock) and pre-finished boards and plywood. the beams you are talking about are 10-12”x16”x4” x 2x12. the rough head of the beam is about 10” on center.wood is a natural material, each and every piece of lumber is unique in its grain and knot placement. green lumber will always have some movement as it dries, this is totally normal. our team makes it a priority to provide straight lumber for all orders, however we cannot guarantee that your pieces will not change as they dry and adjust to new environments. the photos below are extreme examples to help illustrate the different kinds checks, cracks, and shake that are encountered with wood. these extreme examples are never shipped out to our customers!thanks so much for the helpful insight--and the very quick reply. the ceiling area above the beam is not accessible, so there's no additional weight to worry about--really just the weight of the beam itself. a full 5 feet on the far end of the beam is not affected by the crack, which stops just past its midpoint.
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